Showing posts with label Churches. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Churches. Show all posts

Friday, June 8, 2012

Florence - An Eclectic Alphabet

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This is a miscellaneous collection of interesting or intriguing subjects that we came across while staying in Florence.  Note: the Italian Alphabet does not have the letters J, K, W, X, Y


Animation
Bikes
Cell Phones
Driving
Ecclesiastical Nudity
Festival
Good Nazi
Hard Rock Cafe
Italian Empire
Lost
Madonna and Orgies
No Photos
Obstructions
Police
Questionable
Romance
Science
Tourist Office
Underwater
Vendors
Zzzzzzz!




Animation

One of the most interesting views of Florence is that provided by an excellent animation of the city in the 1470's.  It gives a real feel for the city as it was then and allows one to see the continuity through to present times.





Bikes


Bikes and motorbikes are more useful than a car in Florence because of restrictive parking and narrow streets.  However, it seems that you need to be creative with your parking, whether you own an antique shop...

...or a barber shop!


However, someone may have second thoughts about where they put their bike.




Cell Phones


Cell phones seem to be universal, even if you are driving a horse-drawn carriage.



Driving


Driving in Florence is at the very least an interesting experience, sometimes an impossible one.



Ecclesiastical Nudity


It seems that the church in sixteenth century Florence did not have the same hang-ups about sex and nudity as the present Papacy.






Festival


Billed as the coolest Summer Party!

Good Nazi


Gerhard Wolf was the German Consul in Florence for most of the Second World War and the City of Florence honored him with a plaque on the Ponte Vecchio, not only for saving the Ponte Vecchio (possibly most important for the Florentines), but also for saving the lives of many Jews and political prisoners during the Nazi Occupation of Italy.




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Hard Rock Cafe


is this the only tasteful Hard Rock Cafe?




Italian Empire


Inscribed on a school in Florence - Faith in the Imperial Destiny of their Fatherland was heroically sealed by the generous sacrifice in Ethiopia of their youth....!!!




Lost?




In the refectory of Santa Maria Novella, there is a strage juxtaposition of a Bacchanalian orgy...



...and a classical Madonna and Child surrounded by Dominican saints (Santa Maria Novella was the Dominican church rivalling Santa Croce, the Franciscan one across town - perhaps like Liverpool and Everton, Glasgow Rangers and Celtic or A.C. Milano and Internazionale Milano).


They are together on the same wall.....




... because the madonna was covered over when the orgy was painted and so survived to emerge unscathed. 


There is absolutely no consistency in rules about photography in museums, churches or even Tourist Offices (see below!).  Some allow photos, others forbid the use of flash; some forbid movie cameras (does that include iPads?), other prohibit all cameras.  Usually there is a nearly invisible or even no sign at all saying what the rules are.  Our policy was to use our cameras until told not to - usually very politely with a wag of a finger or a whispered request.  

The photo below is a legal photo of David taken from outside the Accademia, which forbids the use of cameras inside the museum.




Florence is plagued by a plethora of churches.  In most cities the churches have space around them to preserve their dignity.  This is certainly not always the case in Florence, where if the churches are in the way and cannot be demolished, you just incorporate them into your building.





Stylish.....

.... not so stylish!





Science




The Universe got horribly complicated in the sixteenth with telescopes discovering new planets and stars especially when one was obliged to believe that the Earth was the center of the Universe.  This is a magnificent view of the Universe in the Galileo Museum (well worth a visit).



Tourist Office



Yes - this really is an official city tourist office!  Beats those of most cities.


Underwater Rugby


This is a game that defies the imagination.  Unfortunately, we did not see the poster until after the game!



Vendors

Have you ever wondered how those omnipresent sellers of postcards and other tourist trinkets got their stalls home at night?  - Probably not at the top of your need-to-know list!
The answer is that they have an electric winch with a handheld remote to pull their stall into their van.


Zzzzzzz!

Before going to sleep, I must mention a wonderful craftsman/artist that we were so happy to find. He truly confirms our faith in Florentine craftsmanship.  His name is Paolo Carandini and he works with great creativity on parchment and leather and he also a very pleasant gentleman.




You can see more of his work on his website.

Thursday, May 31, 2012

Florentine Eclecticism as demonstrated in Santa Croce

The title of this blog entry would seem appropriate for the subject of a Ph. D. thesis, but rest assured, this blog will not be as long as a thesis.  The construction of the Basilica of Santa Croce began in 1294 and it was consecrated in 1442.  However, the striking neo-Gothic facade of the basilica was only built from 1857 to 1863 by Niccolo Mattas - about whom more later.




Before the new facade was completed the church did not look anything like as impressive.


The church, which is enormous, has an amazing collection of art, sculpture and stained glass, but they are beyond the scope of this blog. 

One of the more fascinating aspects of Santa Croce is that it became "the" place to be buried or at least have a memorial if you were anyone of importance in Florence.   The floor and walls are covered with gravestones and memorials.   A interactive plan of these tombs is provided on the website of the Opera di Santa Croce.


Obviously most of the gravestones are on the floor and are often very well preserved.



Not surprisingly, one of the largest tombs is that of Michaelangelo:



You will note that he merits a few angels (see previous blog)!

There is also a more sobre memorial to Dante:


Dante actually benefits from double billing as his statue stands just outside the church.




What is more fascinating is the presence of memorials to some characters who were definitely "persona non grata" with the church in their lifetimes.

Galileo has a fine memorial, although you should note that the angels in top right hand corner of the picture below come from a wall painting that was partly covered over by his tomb.


The presence of this memorial would seem strange because Galileo spent more than eight of the last years of life under house arrest (1633-1642).  After having been threatened with torture, he was condemned by the Inquisition as "vehemently suspect of heresy" for the heinous crime of believing Copernicus' crazy idea that the earth and planets move round the sun, an idea that was clearly false and contrary to Holy Scripture.   Publication of all his existing writings and of any writings that he might make in future was banned and this prohibition was in force until 1835.   It was not until 1979, that the papacy finally admitted that the church might have been erroneous in its treatment of Galileo.

Another apparent miscreant who managed to get a memorial in Santa Croce was Machiavelli.


In his works, Machiavelli clearly expressed his opinion that religions were man-made cults.  He said that Christianity saps the vigor from men required for an active civic life, but saw that religions could be a good thing as they helped keep the masses subservient to their rulers.  His major work "Il Principe - The Prince" was written in 1513 but was not fully published until after his death.  Not surprisingly, it was added to the Holy Index of Prohibited Books.  Yet here he is in state in Santa Croce.

One deserving person who surprisingly has a memorial at Santa Croce is Florence Nightingdale, the Lady with the Lamp, the nurse and teacher, known for her work during the Crimean War and for founding the first teaching nursing school at Saint Thomas' Hospital, London.


Not only was she named Florence, but she was also born in Florence, so can be claimed as a great personality of Florentine history.  The only mystery is why is her memorial relegated to the cloisters instead of being with the other "greats" in the church?  Is is because she was an Anglican, or perhaps because she was a woman?

To return to the builder of the facade, Niccolo Mattas.  He was selected even though he was a Jew.  He wanted to be buried inside Santa Croce alongside the other famous personalities.  However, this was not considered appropriate because of his religion so he was buried just outside the door.



However, it would seem that Niccolo had the last laugh as his design incorporated the Star of David in the topmost position!