The Cibreo Empire covers both sides of the via dè Macchi between the church of Sant' Ambrogio and the market of the same name. This Imperial Domain has been built up by Fabio Picchi. The keystone of the structure is the Ristorante Cibrèo.
This restaurant has an excellent reputation, but it is a little too pricey for us. However, one can eat from many of the same dishes from the same kitchen, but at well under half the prices. One can achieve this by going round the corner from the main restaurant into the Trattoria Cibrèo.
Over the years, we have eaten many times at the Trattoria and have always had excellent meals. The staff, several of whom have been there for many years, could not be more helpful. There are, however, a few things the reader should take into account. There are no reservations; if you are a couple, you will often have to share a table, and they do not serve coffee.......
......because you are expected to take your coffee in another part of the Empire -
Across the road from the Caffe, is the most unique of the Picchi enterprises - the Teatro dal Sale.
At 7 pm, doors open and provided you have a reservation and have duly signed the membership agreement and paid a 5 euro fee, you can enter the theatre passing through a shop that sells Cibrèo souvenirs and food.
The meal, which can become an orgy of food, is self-service. You can watch the food being prepared in the kitchen and when a dish is ready, the chef proclaims, in a voice well suited to the role of regimental sergeant-major, what it is. The video below disproves the myth that Fabio Picchi does not serve pasta! You go up and stand in line to get some of that dish. Vin ordinaire is self-service, but you can buy a bottle of more repute in the shop.
After many, many courses, the tables are cleared away. The seats are rearranged in rows and the performance begins. It usually has a strong musical content, but may also be satirical or comic - obviouly in Italian. The night we were there it was a definitely unusual musical group - three trumpets, three trombones and a tuba! It was very entertaining!
Local legend has it that the pizza restaurant next door is also part of the Cibrèo Empire... and it looksto be of a high standard, although we have never eaten there.
Moving south from Cibrèoland, passing the basilica of Santa Cruz, heading towards the Ponte Vecchio over which we cross the Arno and go to the Oltrano. Turn right on Borgo San Iacobo and then go left on a narrow alleyway, via Toscanella. There one will find the Osteria Toscanella underneath the exterior extension of an old palace.
The interior is quite dramatic and very beautifully decorated. It was the Loggia of the palace and is reputed to have been a very important meeting point in fifteenth century Florence.
Note: The glass covers part of the original floor of the Loggia.
The restaurant is very new, having only opened on the 10th May, 2012. However, we eat there several times, because the food, which is traditional tuscan and very reasonable, the ambiance and the staff are all outstanding.
Perhaps most interesting of all is the owner - Fabriccio Gori - who is an accomplished artist, but who worked for many years at the family restaurant. Not only is he an artist and restauranteur but is a very pleasant gentleman with a passionate interest in Florence. On the wall of the restaurant is a large canvas and one can also find a copy of an triangular book on Pinnochio.
A copy of the book can be found in the book collection of the Museum of Modern Art in New York.
Other works of Roberto Gori can be found on his website. The restaurant also has a website parts of which were still being completed.
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